I have a beautiful Bon Appétit cookbook on breakfasts and brunches
with mouth-watering recipes which I never make because who makes such elaborate dishes for oneself? But if I had a brunch, I thought, I could make that scrumptious German apple pancake that is baked in two frying pans and serves eight. If I had guests to eat the terrine of layered vegetables that looks so good in the picture, I wouldn't mind spending hours in the kitchen to make it. I would also make the quiche with the delightful name "fantasy quiche," I plotted, and a sort of apricot fool, called apricot fantasy, to match it. I could use my mother's hot chocolate set—tall pitcher and eight demitasse cups—for coffee. At any other occasion they would seem pretentious. But not at a brunch.
The day before the party I wood burned a plaque for each guest
with "I love my grandchildren" in the center surrounded by the names of her grandchildren. Then I set the table with my grandmother's white tablecloth, red napkins, white plates from Sweden, my grandmother's Depression-era dessert glasses, and the demitasse cups. I set a peppermint candy and the woodburned plaque by each plate. Then, for the rest of the day and until 10:00 the next morning, I cooked.
There was fresh snow on the ground the day of my party, casting an atmosphere of enchantment over my mountain home. My guests stayed till late afternoon.
Alone in the house again, washing dishes, I glowed. My guests had exclaimed over the beautiful table setting and the delicious food. They had loved talking about their grandchildren and showing us their pictures. They asked questions about each others' grandchildren. They told tender stories and funny anecdotes. Love had swelled and blossomed around the table as we talked about these children and young people who have brought so much joy to their grandmothers and who are doing so well in their lives. My grandmothers' brunch resounded with faith in the future. It was a lovely, lovely morning for us all.
Alone in the house again, washing dishes, I glowed. My guests had exclaimed over the beautiful table setting and the delicious food. They had loved talking about their grandchildren and showing us their pictures. They asked questions about each others' grandchildren. They told tender stories and funny anecdotes. Love had swelled and blossomed around the table as we talked about these children and young people who have brought so much joy to their grandmothers and who are doing so well in their lives. My grandmothers' brunch resounded with faith in the future. It was a lovely, lovely morning for us all.
Next week: "Troll's-home Picnic"
Recipes from this post:
German apple pancake
Mixed vegetable terrine with Béchamel sauce and red pepper purée
Fantasy quiche
Apricot fantasy
GERMAN APPLE PANCAKE
serves 6-8
Batter
Ingredients
8 extra-large eggs
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/8 teaspoon salt
2 cups milk
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, melted
2 teaspoons vanilla
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Preparation
Melt the butter. Grate the nutmeg.
To make
Combine the first six ingredients in mixing bowl and blend with spoon until smooth. Add melted butter, vanilla, and nutmeg, and blend. Let batter stand at room temperature for 30 minutes or in refrigerator overnight.
Apple mixture
Ingredients
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
1 1/3 cups sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
2 large tart apples (Granny Smith or something similar)
Preparation
Grate the nutmeg. Peel, halve, core, and thinly slice the apples. Preheat oven to 425º. Warm a platter for serving.
To make
Divide butter evenly and melt in 2 10-inch ovenproof skillets, brushing butter up sides of pans. Remove from heat. Combine sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg and blend well. Sprinkle 1/3 cup over butter in each skillet. Divide apple slices and layer evenly over butter. Sprinkle with remaining sugar mixture. Place skillets over medium-high heat till mixture begins to bubble. Pour batter over the apples. Then transfer the skillets to oven and bake 15 minutes. Reduce heat to 375 º and bake an additional 10 minutes. Slide onto heated serving platter, cut into wedges, and serve immediately.
MIXED VEGETABLE TERRINE with Béchamel sauce and red pepper purée
serves 8
(My note in the margin with this recipe says, "So good you forget, when you're eating it, how much trouble it was to make.")
Vegetables
Ingredients
3/4 to 1 pound mushrooms
3 cups milk
3/4 pound cabbage (1/2 medium size head)
2 large leeks (1/2 pound)
1 large bunch spinach
1 large bunch sorrel (optional)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preparation
Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Coarsely chop mushrooms. Quarter and core cabbage, then chop coarsely. Slice leeks in half lengthwise and cut each half in 1/2-inch pieces. Wash thoroughly. Stem the spinach and sorrel and wash thoroughly. Place each vegetable in a separate bowl.
To make
Mushrooms: Combine the mushrooms with the milk in a heavy saucepan. Cover and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer 3 minutes. Remove from heat and let steep, stirring occasionally.
Cabbage: Cook in boiling water until just tender, about 8 minutes. Transfer to salad spinner using slotted spoon. Refresh under cold water and spin dry. Return to bowl and sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Leeks: Add to pot of boiling water and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Transfer to salad spinner, refresh under cold water, and spin dry. Return to bowl and sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Spinach: Cook until completely wilted, about 3 minutes. Transfer to salad spinner, refresh under cold water, and spin dry. Chop coarsely. Return to bowl and sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Sorrel: Cook until completely wilted, about 1 minute. Transfer to salad spinner, refresh under cold water, and spin dry. Chop coarsely. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and add to spinach.
Transfer mushrooms to salad spinner with slotted spoon and spin dry. Turn into separate bowl and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Add mushroom liquid from spinner to saucepan with milk.
Sauce
Ingredients
6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) butter
6 tablespoons flour
1 tablespoon minced fresh tarragon (or 1 teaspoon dried)
1 tablespoon minced fresh chervil (or 1 teaspoon dried)
1 tablespoon minced chives or green onion
1 1/2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme (or 1/2 teaspoon dried)
1 1/2 to 2 teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1 cup whipping cream
To make
Melt butter in heavy saucepan over low heat. Whisk in flour and let foam 3 minutes without coloring, stirring constantly. Whisk in milk mixture and stir over medium-high heat until sauce comes to a boil. Reduce heat; simmer until reduced to 3 cups, about 15 minutes. Season with tarragon, chervil, chives, salt, thyme, pepper, and nutmeg. Pour slightly more than half the sauce into bowl and let cool sightly. Blend cream into remaining sauce; set aside.
To assemble
Ingredients
Sauce
3 eggs
1/2 cup cream cheese, room temperature
1 lemon
Prepared vegetables
1/2 cup fresh breadcrumbs
Preparation
Cut cream cheese into chunks. Juice the lemon. Preheat oven to 400º. Generously butter a 1- to 2-quart charlotte mold or a 9x5-inch loaf pan. Line with buttered waxed paper and sprinkle with breadcrumbs.
Assemblage
Beat eggs, cream cheese, and lemon juice into the sauce in the bowl. Divide among cabbage, leeks, spinach, and mushrooms. Taste each vegetable and adjust seasoning. Layer prepared mold with the sauced spinach, leeks, mushrooms, and cabbage. Bake until puffed and browned and knife inserted in center comes out clean, about 50 minutes. Let stand at room temperature for 5 minutes before unfolding onto heated serving platter. (Terrine will stay warm about 30 minutes in a turned-off oven with door ajar.)
Red pepper purée
Ingredients
1 medium red bell pepper
Reduced sauce
To make
Simmer sauce reserved from above until it is reduced by half. Strain and return to pan. Keep warm while you roast the pepper over a direct gas flame or under broiler until completely browned, about 5 minutes, turning frequently. Let stand 5 minutes in a tightly closed plastic bag. Peel pepper. Discard stem and seeds. Purée. Add to reserved sauce. Taste and adjust seasoning.
To serve
Spoon red pepper sauce around unmolded terrine and serve immediately.
FANTASY QUICHE
serves 6-8
Pan preparation
Ingredients
3 tablespoons butter, at room temperature
2/3-1 cup breadcrumbs toasted
Preparation
Coat a 10 1/2-inch quiche pan with butter and sprinkle bottom and sides with breadcrumbs. Refrigerate to set.
Creamy mushroom filling
Ingredients
2 pounds mushrooms
1 lemon
2 tablespoons oil
1 cup half-and-half or evaporated milk or milk
Preparation
Slice mushrooms. Squeeze lemon to yield 1 tablespoon juice.
To make
Sprinkle mushrooms with lemon juice. Heat oil in large skillet over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms and sauté until heated through, about 3 minutes. Reduce heat, cover with half-and-half, and simmer until liquid has almost evaporated and mushrooms are very lightly colored, about 15-20 minutes.
Cream cheese filling
Ingredients
8 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature, or 1 cup cottage cheese
APRICOT FANTASY
GERMAN APPLE PANCAKE
serves 6-8
Batter
8 extra-large eggs
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/8 teaspoon salt
2 cups milk
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, melted
2 teaspoons vanilla
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Preparation
Melt the butter. Grate the nutmeg.
To make
Combine the first six ingredients in mixing bowl and blend with spoon until smooth. Add melted butter, vanilla, and nutmeg, and blend. Let batter stand at room temperature for 30 minutes or in refrigerator overnight.
Ingredients
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
1 1/3 cups sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
2 large tart apples (Granny Smith or something similar)
Preparation
Grate the nutmeg. Peel, halve, core, and thinly slice the apples. Preheat oven to 425º. Warm a platter for serving.
To make
Divide butter evenly and melt in 2 10-inch ovenproof skillets, brushing butter up sides of pans. Remove from heat. Combine sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg and blend well. Sprinkle 1/3 cup over butter in each skillet. Divide apple slices and layer evenly over butter. Sprinkle with remaining sugar mixture. Place skillets over medium-high heat till mixture begins to bubble. Pour batter over the apples. Then transfer the skillets to oven and bake 15 minutes. Reduce heat to 375 º and bake an additional 10 minutes. Slide onto heated serving platter, cut into wedges, and serve immediately.
serves 8
(My note in the margin with this recipe says, "So good you forget, when you're eating it, how much trouble it was to make.")
Vegetables
Ingredients
3/4 to 1 pound mushrooms
3 cups milk
3/4 pound cabbage (1/2 medium size head)
2 large leeks (1/2 pound)
1 large bunch spinach
1 large bunch sorrel (optional)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preparation
Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Coarsely chop mushrooms. Quarter and core cabbage, then chop coarsely. Slice leeks in half lengthwise and cut each half in 1/2-inch pieces. Wash thoroughly. Stem the spinach and sorrel and wash thoroughly. Place each vegetable in a separate bowl.
To make
Mushrooms: Combine the mushrooms with the milk in a heavy saucepan. Cover and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer 3 minutes. Remove from heat and let steep, stirring occasionally.
Cabbage: Cook in boiling water until just tender, about 8 minutes. Transfer to salad spinner using slotted spoon. Refresh under cold water and spin dry. Return to bowl and sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Leeks: Add to pot of boiling water and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Transfer to salad spinner, refresh under cold water, and spin dry. Return to bowl and sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Spinach: Cook until completely wilted, about 3 minutes. Transfer to salad spinner, refresh under cold water, and spin dry. Chop coarsely. Return to bowl and sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Sorrel: Cook until completely wilted, about 1 minute. Transfer to salad spinner, refresh under cold water, and spin dry. Chop coarsely. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and add to spinach.
Transfer mushrooms to salad spinner with slotted spoon and spin dry. Turn into separate bowl and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Add mushroom liquid from spinner to saucepan with milk.
Sauce
6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) butter
6 tablespoons flour
1 tablespoon minced fresh tarragon (or 1 teaspoon dried)
1 tablespoon minced fresh chervil (or 1 teaspoon dried)
1 tablespoon minced chives or green onion
1 1/2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme (or 1/2 teaspoon dried)
1 1/2 to 2 teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1 cup whipping cream
To make
Melt butter in heavy saucepan over low heat. Whisk in flour and let foam 3 minutes without coloring, stirring constantly. Whisk in milk mixture and stir over medium-high heat until sauce comes to a boil. Reduce heat; simmer until reduced to 3 cups, about 15 minutes. Season with tarragon, chervil, chives, salt, thyme, pepper, and nutmeg. Pour slightly more than half the sauce into bowl and let cool sightly. Blend cream into remaining sauce; set aside.
To assemble
Ingredients
Sauce
3 eggs
1/2 cup cream cheese, room temperature
1 lemon
Prepared vegetables
1/2 cup fresh breadcrumbs
Preparation
Cut cream cheese into chunks. Juice the lemon. Preheat oven to 400º. Generously butter a 1- to 2-quart charlotte mold or a 9x5-inch loaf pan. Line with buttered waxed paper and sprinkle with breadcrumbs.
Assemblage
Beat eggs, cream cheese, and lemon juice into the sauce in the bowl. Divide among cabbage, leeks, spinach, and mushrooms. Taste each vegetable and adjust seasoning. Layer prepared mold with the sauced spinach, leeks, mushrooms, and cabbage. Bake until puffed and browned and knife inserted in center comes out clean, about 50 minutes. Let stand at room temperature for 5 minutes before unfolding onto heated serving platter. (Terrine will stay warm about 30 minutes in a turned-off oven with door ajar.)
Red pepper purée
Ingredients
1 medium red bell pepper
Reduced sauce
To make
Simmer sauce reserved from above until it is reduced by half. Strain and return to pan. Keep warm while you roast the pepper over a direct gas flame or under broiler until completely browned, about 5 minutes, turning frequently. Let stand 5 minutes in a tightly closed plastic bag. Peel pepper. Discard stem and seeds. Purée. Add to reserved sauce. Taste and adjust seasoning.
To serve
Spoon red pepper sauce around unmolded terrine and serve immediately.
FANTASY QUICHE
serves 6-8
Pan preparation
3 tablespoons butter, at room temperature
2/3-1 cup breadcrumbs toasted
Preparation
Coat a 10 1/2-inch quiche pan with butter and sprinkle bottom and sides with breadcrumbs. Refrigerate to set.
Creamy mushroom filling
Ingredients
2 pounds mushrooms
1 lemon
2 tablespoons oil
1 cup half-and-half or evaporated milk or milk
Preparation
Slice mushrooms. Squeeze lemon to yield 1 tablespoon juice.
To make
Sprinkle mushrooms with lemon juice. Heat oil in large skillet over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms and sauté until heated through, about 3 minutes. Reduce heat, cover with half-and-half, and simmer until liquid has almost evaporated and mushrooms are very lightly colored, about 15-20 minutes.
Cream cheese filling
Ingredients
8 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature, or 1 cup cottage cheese
1 1/4 cups crême fraîche
3 eggs
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley or tarragon or combination
1 1/2 teaspoons dried thyme or oregano or combination
Freshly grated nutmeg
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Paprika
Preparation
Mince the herbs. Grate the nutmeg.
To make
Combine cream cheese, 3/4 cup crême fraîche, eggs, herbs, and seasonings and blend well.
The quiche
Ingredients
1 tablespoon oil
1 egg, beaten with salt to taste
5 ounces lean boiled ham, diced (omit for vegetarian version)
Creamy mushroom filling
Cream cheese filling
To make
Heat oil in 8-inch omelet pan with ovenproof handle over medium heat. Add egg and tilt pan to coat entire bottom. When bottom is browned, run pan under broiler to brown top. Turn oven temperature to 350º. Gently slide omelet into quiche pan. Spread evenly with mushroom filling and sprinkle with diced ham. Pour cream cheese filling over top. Bake 35-40 minutes.
To serve
Twenty minutes before serving, pour remaining crême fraîche over top of quiche. Bake at 350º until crême is set, about 10-15 minutes.
serves 6
Ingredients
1 10 1/2-ounce can apricot halves, drained
2 tablespoons unflavored gelatin
1 12-ounce can apricot nectar
1/2 cup water
1 package vanilla pudding mix (3 5/8-ounces)
1 lemon
1 cup whipping cream
Pecans or berries for garnish
Preparation
Drain the can of apricot halves. Juice the lemon to make 1 1/2 to 2 teaspoons juice. Whip the cream. Chop and toast the pecans, if using.
To make
Mash apricot halves in small bowl and set aside. Combine gelatin and 1/4 cup nectar in large bowl, stirring until gelatin is dissolved. Blend remaining nectar with 1/2 cup water in small bowl. Prepare pudding mix according to package instructions, substituting nectar-water mixture for milk. Add hot pudding to gelatin mixture in thin stream, stirring constantly. Add apricots and lemon juice and mix thoroughly. Let cool slightly. Gently fold in whipped cream. Turn apricot mixture into 1-quart soufflé dish or spoon into 6 wine glasses. Cover and refrigerate until set, at least 30 minutes.
To serve
Remove from refrigerator. Garnish with berries or pecans.
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